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FASHION

Bring Back the Ridiculous It-Bag

There was a time when the bag was not there to quietly finish an outfit. It was the outfit.

The Balenciaga City came covered in moto hardware and tassels, the Chloé Paddington arrived with a padlock that looked capable of securing a small yacht, Dior gave us the Saddle, and Fendi turned the Baguette into the sort of object people could identify before they had registered the person carrying it.

photolime / ALAMY

The best It-bags were slightly absurd, which was part of the charm. Too big, too decorated, too recognisable, occasionally too heavy and almost certainly too expensive. They had personality because the design itself was strong enough to make them instantly recognisable.

Associated Press / ALAMY

The Balenciaga City was all slouchy leather, studs, zips and tassels, and looked better with a little wear. The Chloé Paddington was softer and more romantic, built around that oversized padlock, while Dior and Fendi proved that a great It-bag only really needed one thing: a shape you could recognise instantly.

That was the appeal of the great It-bag era. Nobody seemed especially concerned with whether a bag was versatile, timeless or discreet. It simply had to be good enough that you wanted it immediately, preferably for reasons that were not entirely rational.

Grzegorz Czapski / ALAMY

Bring back the ridiculous It-bag: the impossible shape, the oversized buckle, the unnecessary tassel, the colour that refuses to match anything else. If you are going to carry the same object every day, it may as well have some personality.

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