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BEAUTY

The Fragrances We Actually Want to Smell Like

From bright fruit and luminous florals to leather, moss and warm vanilla, these are fragrances with enough character to change the mood of an entire look.

Grzegorz Czapski / ALAMY

Grzegorz Czapski / ALAMY

MIU MIU MIUTINE


Miutine opens with wild strawberry before moving into gardenia and a warmer base of brown sugar, vanilla and patchouli. Beneath the sweetness sits the darker structure of a chypre, with citrus, oakmoss and patchouli keeping it from becoming too confectionery.

The strawberry is bright rather than childish, while the gardenia adds a creamy floral centre. As it settles, the brown sugar and vanilla become softer and more enveloping. Playful, certainly, but with enough moss and patchouli underneath to maintain its earthiness.



CHLOÉ NOMADE EAU DE PARFUM



Nomade is built around three principal notes: sweet Mirabelle plum, luminous freesia and mineral oakmoss. The plum gives it a ripe, almost honeyed fruitiness; the freesia keeps the composition airy; and the oakmoss leaves a dry, green finish beneath it all.

It is warmer and earthier than Chloé’s more familiar rose-led fragrances. Feminine without being powdery and bohemian without drifting into incense and patchouli clichés, it smells polished but not overly formal.

Mykhailo Polenok / ALAMY

MOSCHINO TOY 2 BUBBLE GUM


Toy 2 Bubble Gum begins with candied citrus, Italian lemon and orange. The bubble-gum accord arrives in the heart alongside cinnamon, blueberry, ginger, Bulgarian rose, peach and peach blossom, before drying down to cedarwood, Ambrofix and silky musk.

The opening is unmistakably sweet, pink and nostalgic, although the citrus gives it more brightness than the name might suggest. Rose and peach soften the bubble gum through the middle, while musk and cedar keep the dry-down cleaner and less sugary.


ROBERTO CAVALLI SERPENTINE



Serpentine opens with pink pepper, bergamot and blackcurrant, followed by jasmine sambac, lavender, saffron and rose. Madagascar vanilla, tonka bean and patchouli form the base, giving the fragrance its warmth and depth.

The blackcurrant and pepper make the opening darkly fruity rather than fresh. Saffron gives the floral heart a warmer, more textured quality, while vanilla and tonka make the dry-down creamy and full-bodied. It smells rich, floral and distinctly after dark.

Anad Savpo / ALAMY

YSL LIBRE FLOWERS & FLAMES



Flowers & Flames takes Libre’s recognisable floral identity in a warmer direction. Desert lily and creamy coco-palm flower sit at the centre of the composition, creating something softer and more solar than the original.

The familiar lavender and orange-blossom character remains present, but it is rounded by the palm flower and the richer lily note. The effect is creamy, floral and sun-warmed rather than sharp or aromatic. It has presence without the heavier sweetness of a conventional gourmand.


DIOR J’ADORE EAU DE PARFUM



J’adore is a grand floral built from solar ylang-ylang, velvety Damascus rose and a pairing of jasmine grandiflorum and jasmine sambac.

Ylang-ylang gives it warmth and a softly exotic fruitiness, the rose brings richness, and the jasmines make the fragrance fuller and more sensual as it develops. It is luminous rather than sugary.

Heorshe / ALAMY

LANCÔME IDÔLE NECTAR



Idôle Nectar opens with a concentrated rose accord combining Isparta rose, Centifolia rose and rose absolute. Its most distinctive note appears in the heart: warm popcorn with caramel. Bourbon vanilla forms the base.

The rose remains prominent, but the popcorn gives it a toasted, buttery warmth that separates it from a conventional sweet floral. Caramel softens the centre and vanilla gives the dry-down a creamy finish.


GUCCI FLORA GORGEOUS ORCHID



Gucci Flora Gorgeous Orchid pairs a vanilla duo at the top with vanilla orchid in the heart and an ozonic accord in the base.

Despite the amount of vanilla, it does not smell dense or bakery-sweet. The orchid gives it a soft floral quality, while the ozonic accord introduces an airy, slightly mineral freshness. The result is luminous, sweet and colourful.

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