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FASHION

"It Costs a Lot of Money to Look This Cheap"

The wigs got higher, the rhinestones multiplied and the dresses became more elaborate, but Dolly Parton’s idea of glamour barely changed.

AFF / ALAMY

AFF / ALAMY

Dolly Parton based her look on the woman in her Tennessee hometown whom everybody called the town tramp. Blonde hair, heavy makeup, heels and tight clothes made her a subject of local judgement; to Dolly, she was simply glamorous. It is difficult to think of a more fitting starting point for the style she would build over the next sixty years.

MEDIA PUNCH / ALAMY

She could have left that version of glamour behind as soon as money, fame and very good designers arrived. Instead, she made it more elaborate. The blonde hair got higher, the heels got taller and the rhinestones multiplied. That is what makes the clothes more interesting than simply calling them flamboyant. Dolly took all the things traditionally dismissed as cheap, artificial or excessive — wigs, acrylic nails, tight dresses, bright colour, sequins — and treated them as entirely worthy of aspiration.

CAL SPORT MEDIA / ALAMY

In fashion, where reinvention is almost compulsory, there is something rather wonderful about how little Dolly’s idea of glamour changed over the decades.

MEDIA PUNCH / ALAMY

Parton died on August 25 at the age of 80, leaving behind a legacy that reaches far beyond clothes: extraordinary music, decades of philanthropy and an Imagination Library that has sent hundreds of millions of books to children. But we’ll always thank her for keeping the hair high, the heels higher and the rhinestones firmly in place.

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